Thursday, June 12, 2008
Our anti pasti
It's been a few days since we wrote the blog - thats because we have moved on to the Italian Alps this time and the internet in this area is in short supply. So let us recap...
We drove from Prutz in Austria along the most scenic route yet! Absolutely beautiful. I was taking photos all the time while Steve drove - and he cursed about the caravan in front that was slowing us down! Honestly - who would have those contraptions on the road anyway? see pic.
We passed over the border which was at the height of 5500ft! into Italy and drove on to a place called Lana, then on to the camp site some 7 km further on - all seriously uphill in second gear! The turn off the road to Tesins Tessimo into the camp site was a steep drop with no passing places so we crossed our fingers that it was the correct place - there would have been no turning back. The camp site is a new small one set in an orchard. That sounds small but we can assure you that we have never seen so many apple and pear trees as well as other fruits - as far as the eye can see. It has a lovely 25 mtr outdoor pool set in manicured lawns for sunbathing with magnificent views all around - see pic. No internet to speak of though so we have been a little bit cut off so to speak.
The area itself is a little mixed up we think - After the first world war Austria paid the price and forfeited this area to the Italians. We never knew there had been such major battles in this area resulting in thousands of deaths and casualties. Soldiers took short cuts up the mountains by erecting iron ladders to the sides of the rock which you can still climb to thhis day - if you have the bottle. The result is now a real mixture of Austrians, Italians, Germans and Swiss and the road signs are in both German and Italian which helps us with some of the translations. Some houses are built in Austrian chalet style and others in the many windowed and shuttered Italian style. The place has real character and is truly cosmopolitan. The region also changed its name to Alto Adige afrer the river running through it. There are still lots of signs saying South Tirol though.
Yesterday we went into Merano - a largish town with cobbled streets, shops, cafes and very easy to cycle round. Today we are in Bolzano - a bigger town with a beautiful old centre of winding lanes and cobbled streets. Some of the streets are very narrow with tall buildings on either side. There are lots of cyclists around mingling with the hundreds of pedestrians - and no one loses their temper. There is a fantastic market with lots of fresh fruit, cheeses, breads etc - just what we have been looking forward to see pic. Its hard to know whether to say guscott, bonjourno, gutten tag or hello though - so we use a mixture of them all until we get a response - then ask if they speak English!! We are now sitting in Multi kulti - an internet, wifi, phone shop.
The weather has been mixed too - some lovely hot sun and temperatures of 23 - 25c, then the heavens open and the rain comes down. Its because we are situated between the Alps and the Dolomites and there are some crazy weather battles going on up there in the sky. Steve particularly likes this area becasue the valleys are broader than in Germany and Austria giving the place a much spacious and grand feel. I just love the atmosphere in these towns - there are characters galore - then there's me and Steve!! The buildings are spectacular and the mountainous background is wonderful.
I suppose its because of the rainfall here but the rivers run in fast flowing torrents through the towns. As this area is renowned for its mild climate the flowers and trees are in profusion - yesterday we cycled through a sub tropical terraced garden running by the side of the river on towards a deep gorge with water crashing through it - it looked and smelled wonderful. We feel very lucky to have this opportunity to experience such a wide variety of people and places.
We have had our first Italian meals too - yesterday we bought some dried Porcini mushrooms and speck(Italian smoked ham that you cut into cubes to eat) and gorgeous egg tagliatelle - we cooked it as the market stall holder recommended - with onion, garlic, herbs and olive oil of course and it was delicious. Today we have had lunch in Bolzano - a Pizza and salad - cooked fresh like Mamma makes - literally.
Tomorrow we move on again further south to Trentino which is a bit nearer to the Dolomites. We don't know if there is an internet facility there but we will catch up as we can. In the meantime be assured we are having a whale of a time.....
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