Time for action

We have given thought to our future plans and decided to end our European adventure on 7th August which also coincides with the expiry of the annual caravan insurance - and we wouldn't want anything to happen to Essie would we??

Steve and I spent the morning tidying the caravan and Steve did a few odd jobs to make her perfect! As the owner of the site hadn't come back to us with an offer we couldn't refuse, we need to put her up for sale - along with the bikes. I asked the owners daughter to write adverts in Greek for us and I copied them out and affixed them to the car and caravan windows (see the sign in Greek).

After lunch we put our travel plans into action and surfed the net. We contacted Salamis shipping and booked the car on the ferry from Piraeus to Limassol for August 7th - yes Graham, your birthday - at 20.00hrs. Then we researched flights from Athens for us and found there are no flights to Paphos to fit in with the ferry time so we have to go to Larnaca. The only flight available leaves at 23.05hrs, landing in Larnaca at 00.40hrs. Then we have to get to our home of course.

We debated whether to get a taxi or hire a car for the 2 days - our car arrives at Limassol port on 9th August at 08.00hrs - so we have to get to the port as well on the Saturday - so much to arrange!!

We then lazed for a while around the pool and read - it is hot and we have done a lot. A lovely dinner and an early night will set us up for moving on.

We got up early today to pack things up and move on to our next stop in Delphi. Our plans for an early set off went a bit amiss when some German neighbours of ours stopped for a chat and we just had to share some of his birthday cake with him - it would be rude not to. Then when we were about to leave an Italian family appoached us and asked about the bikes for sale. After much discussion - mostly by sign language and pointing, a deal was reached and they rode them back to their caravan. That was easy! That is great for us as this trip has proved to be a much larger financial drain on us than we anticipated and it will reduce the weight and drag to give us more miles per gallon. We have got a private account now with Shell - having bought so much diesel on this trip!

A long drive later along some very scenic coastal roads we have arrived at a camp site between Itea and Delphi. It is set up on a mountainside with panoramic views (see pic)and vast olive groves all around (see pic). Steve offers a word of warning to those planning to drive in Greece - double the amount of time you need to reach your destination. The roads twist and turn and are very busy with lots of trucks. It is impossible to make good progress.

We did stop off at a roadside taverna for a spot of lunch too. It was real home cooking and very economical too. For those of you living in Cyprus - it reminded us of the small eatery beside Papa's in Chlorakas. Lots of good food, pleasant staff and good prices. As they didn't speak English they simply took us into the kitchen and showed us all the dishes in the ovens and on the hobs and we chose what we wanted by pointing - it worked really well.

As you can tell the campsite has wifi and also a swimming pool - and we can see the beach from where we are writing this blog. We plan to stay here for 3 nights, then move on to a campsite near to Athens in readiness for August 7th.

Discovering Greece

Today we have been into Preveza to explore and what a friendly town it is too.

It is a modern working town with an old part and a port and there is very little tourism attached to it. We walked around the modern shopping area first as we needed a few things and were pleased and surprised at its likeness to Paphos. Shopkeepers stopped and talk with us and helped us with our pathetic Greek language and happily took our money off us! Some people will understand when I say that the pavements are not finished, the small piles of rubble are left around after an uncompleted job and there is a mixture of old Greek shop signs and English modern signs around. Deja vu experience. The car parking is a free for all (and all the better for it in my opinion) and the cars on the roundabouts just don't have a clue about what to do, how to drive or who gives way to who. You just have to edge out and drive on with eyes in the back of your head and leave them to it. They are not reckless, thoughtless drivers like in Italy - in fact they are very cautious and that creates its own problems.

Some of the roads around this part of Greece are very similar to Cyprus - in fact at times we thought we were in Kissonerga - lovely it was too.

Having travelled through a lot of Europe now we both feel that Greece is the most friendly and hospitable place to be.

We bought a few things and went back to Essie for lunch. The owner of the camp site and his wife have been to inspect Essie and we will talk later when their daughter is present to translate - fingers crossed.

After a pedicure each (again - such luxury), and another laze by the pool, reading, we cooked a lovely meal of chilli pork, tomatoes and pici pasta (from Castiglione in Italy) with basil from the campsite gardens.

So here we are again sitting round the pool writing the blog - sheer luxury. The place is quiet, everyone else having gone back to wherever they came from - the swallows and bats are jostling for position around and over the pool and the cicadas are sounding off gently in the background - better than work eh????

What a difference a week makes

We can't believe that another Sunday has come around already - and our memories of last Sunday were not good on the beach with the Italians. This week is a totally different picture thankfully.

After a leisurely start to the day we had a peaceful walk down to the beach. It only took a few minutes on a private path from the campsite and we came across a beach that had only a handful of people on it - by mid morning! Granted it is not a commercialised beach at all. It has a lot of seaweed on it and no beach bars - but it is all the better for it. See pics. We walked one way and then the other along the crystal clear waters edge and found a man made reed hut - without the man present. Very Robinson Crusoe! see pic.

After that we came back, showered and dressed and drove down to the port to seek out a taverna for our Sunday lunch. The port has a promenade that people like to strut along and it is served by lots of bars and cafes at its edge. There are lots of boats and yachts moored up on the port - some from the UK - and it made a pleasant walk for us in the sunshine.

The tavernas were all in the backstreets - loads of them. We were really spoiled for choice, but having set our hearts on a traditional Greek dinner the menus decided it for us. The Mermaid Taverna - one of the oldest in the town - served stifado and kleftiko and that was the decision made.

It did not disappoint either - the kleftiko is different to the Cyprus version which is mainly meat (goat often disguised as lamb). This one was a meal in a dish with slow roasted lamb, potatoes and peas, having a melted cheese topping over it. Very nice too. The stifado was more traditional and well known to us but equally delicious. A Greek salad accompanied the meal with some local wine and beer for Steve. We rounded it off with a Greek coffee each and were well stuffed and pleased with the affair.

While we were eating we couldn't help but notice that the owner of the taverna had a lot of young, Eastern European girls around him and obviously dependant on him. He seemed to provide bed and breakfast for them - if you know what I mean. His poor wife was left to do the work in the taverna - as usual in these cases - and she was not too happy by the end of our meal and I don't blame her. It seems to be the same old story no matter where you are in the world.

After that lovely lunch we returned to Essie, changed and lazed around the wonderful swimming pool for the rest of the afternoon. We then looked at the internet and found some sites to move on to and looked at costs of flights from Athens to Cyprus. That is only around the corner now and as soon as we have heard from Salamis shipping about taking the car over on the roro ferry we need to put all the plans in place.

The site owners daughter speaks good English and we asked her to write out an advert for the caravan and the bikes in Greek so that we can sell them before we go to Cyprus. She did as we asked but then came back to us to ask what we want for the caravan as her father is interested. Negotiations to continue.....

Change of plan

We woke this morning to awful weather - cold (16c), raining and grey - not what we ordered at all! The clouds were sitting on the lake and it looked like it had set in for the day. We are high up in these mountains and told that there is snow during the winter time so its not too much of a surprise for them - but it is for us. So we decided to move south to find the sun again instead of moving further into the mountains and we may never see the monasteries on the top through the low cloud.

A nice Dutch man at the site gave us a map of Greece with some campsites identified on it so we used that to identify our next port of call. We decamped and were about to hitch the caravan to the car when the dolly wheel came apart in Steve's hand. After curses all round he quickly realised that it was the split pin that had broken and that held it all together. Being a man who brings everything that may be needed with him - he found a new split pin and ten minutes later we were on the road.

We drove south through some stunning mountain scenery - see pic and watched the temperature guage rise to 26c as we descended. Much better - we need the sun now and the cold and damp makes us feel miserable.

We reached the next campsite according to plan to find it deserted and desolate. We scratched about a bit but found no sign of human life - only a family of tortoises - see pic and some guinea fowl scratching in the dirt. So we had no option but to move on and see what we could find.

In the next town we found an internet cafe and a very helpful owner who pointed towns out on the map for us so that we knew where to drive to next. We had a spot of lunch by the sea - fresh calamari and a Greek salad with a slab of feta cheese on it (and chips) - most welcome. Then we drove on.

By the time we reached Preveza it was mid afternoon and we were tired and fed up. That mood soon lifted when we set eyes on our next campsite. It is a veritable haven approached through an ancient olive grove but being brand new in all its facilities. The showers, toilets etc have just been completed and there is a beautiful swimming pool area to relax in - see pic. This is where we are sitting as I write, using their free wifi - bliss. The sea is a short walk down a path from the camp but we haven't ventured there yet.

Today we have been into Preveza and looked around the shops - the people are wonderfully friendly and remind me so much of being in Cyprus - it all does really. Then we spent the afternoon lazing around the pool, having it mostly to ourselves. When the campsite owners get their website together the place will be very busy I'm sure so we are lucky to have to peace and quiet of it now. It is a refreshing change of temperature in these parts. Although it is hot - 28c - there is very little humidity and a cooling sea breeze, making it all very comfortable for us. The shade of the trees keeps Essie cool and allows us to sleep very well.

While we are here we will take the opportunity to arrange the shipping for the car and our flights to Cyprus and catch up on Skype with family and friends. The next campsites also need to be researched and we have to confirm bookings with them by phone as it is high season, it is very busy and there aren't many campsites to be had.

Tomorrow, being Sunday, we are out to the harbour area of Preveza to seek out a good restaurant and some Greek cuisine - can't wait!!

Greece is the word, is the word, is the word

Oh the pleasure to drive to Bari ! No problems there and the first thing we did was go to a bancomat and withdraw money - easily!! The rest of the world does oblige it seems. We confirmed our booking and hung around until we could board the ferry at 5pm. It was easy with Esmerelda - we just had a lie down in her, read and had a sleep. We were parked beside a cruise liner and I just had to take a picture of it - note the name of the liner - it is the appropriate heading for our trip!

Boarding brought with it a hiccup inasmuch as there was confusion around our booking. We thought we had arranged for camping on board - that is sleeping in the caravan on the overnight sailing. The ferry company thought otherwise. We found a nice Greek Purser who worked wonders with a grumpy ferry manager and they changed our booking to enable us to sleep in comfort. It meant Steve had to move the car and caravan again which didn't go down well with the crew members responsible for stacking vehicles - but it was done.

It was fascinating watching the men navigate the huge trucks - some articulated lorries, some car transporters - all in such a tight space and having to turn around in readines to disembark in Greece. It was not a drive on, drive off ferry. There was much shouting, whistling and frayed tempers among the crew and drivers who both thought they knew best. Essie was squashed between two huge lorries but we looked after her. See the pic of Steve on deck after parking up.

We then familiarised ourselves with the boat - first the bar! Very swish it was too and they had wifi there. Steve had two beers and with the first he was given a mobile phone neck strap and with the second a baseball cap - both Heineken of course. Then we went and ate some very good Greek food - I felt like I was coming home already!!

Back to the bar and some internet to catch up on emails. The boat set off and the swell caused my stomach to roll a bit so I put on my sea bands and they worked their magic. It was very strange descending the stairs to walk amongst all the trucks to get to Essie and go to bed. There was another caravan opposite ours and the occupants had the table and chairs on the deck enjoying a full meal as though they were in the middle of a field!

The night passed quickly - we had some interruptions to our sleep with the rumbling of the engines, the heat and our car alarm going off several times. Imagine the scene of Steve on deck in his boxer shorts at 4.30am sorting it out - 3 or 4 times. Eventually he left the car unlocked to go back to sleep and we were woken up by crew at 6am to get things organised for disembarking. The clocks had been put forward an hour to Greek time so we had lost an hours sleep there too.

We watched the daybreak as the boat approached Igoumenitsa port and it was beautiful- see pics.

A straightforward drive off the ferry and through the port took us on the motorway with stunning views of Greek mountains all around us - see the pics.

Then the diversion occurred and 2.5 hours of twisting mountain roads between the big trucks that were also diverted wasn't very funny. We only managed to cover about 50 miles in that time - the road was that slow - but the scenery was really beautiful.

Being tired after a short nights sleep we decided to camp in the first main town - Ioannina. It is a typical Greek working town but we saw a few signs for a campsite so followed them. We were amazed to arrive at a camp by the side of a lake with mountains on the other side. Excellent facilities too - and peace and quiet - see pic

After setting up camp we had a meal and a sleep, then a refreshing shower and change of clothes before exploring the town. It is a very old town dominated by a castle beside the lake and lots of cafes and bars on the edge of it. They are very modern and spacious and better than you would find in London.

After a good nights sleep we did some essential jobs - laundry, washing the outside of Essie (she was absolutely filthy after all her travels)as the temperature has dropped leaving the air very fresh and giving us more energy.

This afternoon we have come to one of the bars in Ioannina where we are having a drink and using their free wifi - a cracking set up. With the drinks come a free bottle of water and an ice bucket as well as a plate of meats, cheeses, breadsticks and salad to nibble at. Who said Greece was behind the times and out of touch with modern day society?? It is cheap too.

Later we are going to go to a restaurant here and eat our first Greek meal in the country - fantastic! We can also say Yammas and mean it!!

Tomorrow we move on to Meteora - a very interesting place that has monasteries on top of the mountain and they transport the monks and goods up to the top in baskets.

Money makes the world go round

The day after my mad rant about the awful place we had found ourselves in on the coast of Metaponto we decided to go out and find a bancomat to stock up on euros. Our expectations of Greece went something like this - very basic facilities, everything way behind the times and exceedingly cheap. Internet provision and bancomats were way too futuristic for the Greeks we thought. So we wanted cash in the hand to pay our way.

Off we went on our cycles to the local bancomat that spat the card back at me in disgust refusing to give us any money. We went back to camp, had lunch and our siesta and afterwards decided to drive to the nearest large town to seek out some dosh. Off to Bernaldo we went - a fairly large town about 10km away that looked like a ghost town. We kerb crawled until we found bancomats and tried 5 different banks - none would give us any money, not recognising my card. The banks were closed at it was about 4pm by now. We started to get worried having only about 20 euros left and needing to pay for the campsite the following day.

We then decided to go the whole hog and drive to the main city in the area - Matera. It is an interesting place anyway having a historical site of many caves that were dwellings for the very poor until the 1990s - malaria was also rife amongst them. In 1998 the goverment rehoused and treated everyone and UNESCO then made it a world heritage site.

The drive was ok and we searched for a radio station to accompany our travels. The only one we could find with anything like a good reception and fairly good music was called R.Sole! Sums it all up really doesn't it?

It was about 5pm when we reached there and tried all the banks with both debit and credit cards until finally one allowed me to withdraw some money on the credit card - only one though. Thoroughly fed up, worried and hungry we set off back to camp. On the way back to the car we did overlook some of the old dwellings and they appeared to be very interesting - kestrels were nesting and perching beside pigeons on the rooftops - a very odd and unusual sight to see. We would have loved to have spent more time there but the evening was drawing near and we had a fair drive ahead of us.

Arriving back at camp after 7pm we ordered a take away pizza - the only good thing about that campsite - and it didn't disappoint again. Another pleasant surprise was that the noisy Italian family next to us on the camp had left!! peace and quiet for our last night there. I've put a couple of pics of the campsite on here - it looks better than it felt I can assure you. Onwards towards Greece tomorrow.

Our stay in Metaponto

Well what an experience - and not one to be repeated! or to endure any longer than necessary either.

Firstly - what is the difference between a cicada and an Italian? Answer - cicadas make as much noise as Italians but the cicadas at least shut up at night.

This large camp site is full of Italians (we are the only Brits, and probably the only non Italians), all making lots of noise - talking at high volume, TVs blaring, kids screaming and music playing - all night!!

Supposedly there is a quiet time on the camp site. From 2 - 4pm during meal time and siesta, and again from 11pm until 7am for sleep time - forget all that. The meal times are a chance to yak, yak, yak, scream at children and play the TV loudly to overcome the noise of the thousands of cicadas. Today the Formula 1 Grand Prix was challenging the cicadas during siesta time as well.

Last night we were shattered after driving a long way and setting up the caravan, sunshade etc in serious heat so we were ready for bed at about 10.30pm - not that lot. When we were coming back from the shower block at that time it was like Picadilly Circus at mid day. Everyone was out partying and they were just getting the barbies fired up to cook the meals. People were talking and singing and generally having a good time, children as well. We were very thankful for ear plugs.

I know it was still going on between 1 and 2am as I got up for a drink and Steve got up as daylight was breaking to hear loads of men singing and chanting loudly - and there was no football on.

Then this morning they were still at it! Don't they ever sleep? We got on our bikes at about 10am to try to escape to the beach for a couple of hours peace and quiet - what??? see the pics - all the Italians were swarming like ants on the beach and standing in the sea and still coming down in coach loads! You couldn't see any sand at all it was that packed down there. The noise from talking and the beach music was horrendous - we cycled off to be where they weren't. We couldn't believe it.

We cycled around although it was very hot - at least in was peaceful, they were all on the beach. Then we had lunch and a siesta - with ear plugs - and decided to stick it out for another couple of nights until we go to Bari and to Greece. It will be the same in every camp site around here we are sure. This is supposed to be a quiet, remote area of Italy that is not subjected to tourism - but it is subjected to the weekend Italian breaks. As it is Sunday we just hope they will clear off this evening and go back home ready for work tomorrow and leave us in peace.

We only have tomorrow to suffer this, then to Bari on Tuesday morning.

Onwards

Well we moved on again today - to unknown territory in the main but we have come across a real find!

After leaving our campsite and daring to ascend the road out of the bay with our hearts in our mouths, we succeeded in accessing the autoroute towards the south east coast. We chanced on this campsite by exploring the internet and realised that it has 22miles of golden sandy beach along a lido with lots of campsites - a bit like Lido de Jesolo we thought.

The drive was easy as soon as we had escaped the absolutely crazy traffic of Naples and Sorrento. At 9.15am they were bumper to bumper trying to access the beaches for the day - and they didn't care how they got there - overtaking where there wasn't space, cutting other people up and the rest. It was with joy and sheer relief that we left it all behind.

As soon as Sorrento and Amalfi were behind us the traffic disappeared and the beautiful mountainous countryside began. The books didn't prepare us for the wonderful sights and totally uncommercialised landscapes. It was an easy drive to the Ionian coast where we easily found our campsite on the edge of the golden sands and set within pine forests to provide lots of shade.

We had a bit of difficulty setting up camp as the guy tried his hardest to make us use a piece of land that is unsuitable for caravans - then his colleague came along and drove some sense into his head. It was 35c by now and we finally got ourselves sorted out thankfully. We were a bit apprehensive to say the least as we were accompanied by thousands of cicadas literally thundering their noise throughout the camp. We couldn't hear ourselves speak! It was good to have something to eat and drink, then have a shower and relax.

There are lots of things to do on this camp - all sorts of sport, the beach is 500 mtres away, the Greek ruins are nearby to explore and there is a full entertainment programme. This evening we decided to make use of their restaurant, strolled up there and ordered a pizza and salad and listened to a wonderful jazz trio playing nearby. The pizza was the best I have ever had, the local wine was great and the evening wonderfully relaxing - a good start. There is also free wifi here at the camp so we are sitting out in the evening warmth writing this blog - and the cicadas have shut up for the night! - bliss.

Vita Bella

Yesterday we went to Sorrento and today we went to Amalfi so we will combine the two for the blog and give our comparisons for what they are worth.

We travelled by bus and train to Sorrento - very cheap, only 2.40 euros each return. We can't grumble at that especially as the buses and trains run so frequently so there is hardly any waiting either. The trains are full of graffiti as I explained in an earlier blog - see pic. But they are comfortable inside and race along the track. Sorrento was like any other mediterranean resort you may have been to - lots of English there on package holidays and the cafes and bars equipped for them serving English breakfast and English tea - thats the first time in the whole trip we have come across this and we didn't like it. The beach was very small and very crowded and the Italians had set up a man made spit of rock/concrete with sun loungers on (that they graciously call a lido) to make up for the lack of beach.

We wandered around the streets and it had its pretty places of course - but mostly it was over commercialised and overpriced for what was on offer.

Today however we have been to Amalfi. We decided to go by boat which was also very cheap and very comfortable. It was an twin hulled jet boat with air con, fitted out like a very wide airliner. Unfortunately we had to sit inside and look through the windows at the beautiful views as we sped along but photographs were impossible due to the amount of sea spray (and dirt) on the windows. I was hoping for an open decked boat that I could stand at the side of with the wind in my hair as I took photo after photo - but there you are.

Amalfi itself though was very impressive. It was obvious it had loads of character as soon as we got off the boat. The town is spread throughout a valley between mountains that rise vertically from the seashore. It has a mild seedy effect to the buildings which only give it more character. There were no English cafes or bars - everything was Italian - as it should be. There were plenty of UK visitors though as well as Americans off the cruise ships, but they didn't take over or detract from the atmosphere.

After meandering around the lanes and piazzas we had a lunch and a drink on a terrace above the harbour, then some more exploration before we stopped for an ice cream break and then caught a mid afternoon boat back.

That was a much better memory for both of us of the area we have been staying in. The first couple of photos are of Sorrento, the next three are Amalfi.

Tomorrow we move on again to our last campsite in Italy before we catch the ferry to Greece.

To the Isle of Capri - Del Boy absent thankfully

We had the most delightful day on the Isle of Capri today. We set off early by boat from the harbour round the corner, stopped off in Sorrento to pick up more people and were at Capri within the hour.

There are four things we can say about the Isle of Capri -

It is very pretty - there is lush vegetation and the buildings - houses, hotels and shops are kept in pristine condition - unlike the rest of the area we are staying in! The streets are very narrow and they have a form of transportation to deliver things to shops, people and suitcases to hotels etc that is unique. The electric vehicles are about a metre wide and people have to duck into shop doorways to allow them to pass. Even the police patrol in Smart cars! They also have a unique form of taxi cab - it is an elongated saloon car with the roof cut off and a type of awning put in place to keep the sun off the passengers - see pic. All other vehicles, including the buses, have scratches down the side and dents from the frequent collisions with cliff faces or other vehicles.

It is very steep - from the picturesque harbour with its clear dark blue water and its buzzy cafes, the island rises steeply to the top with many buildings clinging to its sides. There is a funicular railway from the harbour to the main town centre, or there are hundreds of steps. Guess which option we took? yes, the steps. We always like a bit of exercise but this was going too far - once started though we were committed and we managed it but were ready for a coffee after the climb. From the main centre there is a bus that takes you further uphill to Anacapri - right on the top of the mountain. This is another village with its own character and appeal and one not to be missed. We did this after lunchtime by bus and could look out over the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius easily during the winding drive up the mountain. It was worth the trip but the ride around the twisting mountainous roads set my stomach off and was not for the fearless. A good grip was required on the handrails to steady ourselves and the rutted roads were very uncomfortable, especially as they cram a ridiculous amount of people into each bus - with no air con!

It is very clean - there is a marked contrast between this area and the mainland in terms of litter and graffiti. It is absent on Capri. The inhabitants obviously take great pride in their island and it is a breath of fresh air to visitors.

It is expensive - there are all the designer names plus some more on the island - and they are all after your money. Ridiculous prices are quoted for simple clothes - thats my version of it anyway but anyone who knows me recognises that I don't spend recklessly - and to me this was reckless! Even simple trinkets were well beyond the norm - it brought me out in many hot flushes. The many eating establishments were asking huge amounts of money for fixed meals that was double the amount paid on the mainland - and thats not cheap!!

We did have a really good day though, had a good explore and a lovely lunch which we bought in a local cafe and sat and ate in a pretty park in the shade. We bought some momentoes as well and have taken lots of pics to remember it by. Before we left the island we had a coffee each in one of the harbour cafes and had to pay the sum of 10 euros for the privelidge! It was a very necessary sit down though!

On the whole we would recommend Capri to you and advise you to take a well padded wallet and a good sense of humour with you. It is a piece of another world - one that we would not like to remain in but enjoyed our time there.

The boat trip both ways was comfortable, air conditioned and economical. The coastline is astounding as probably everyone knows already - but it really is in the flesh if you know what I mean.

Tomorrow is a visit to Sorrento to see what is the attraction there for thousands of Brits every year.

A recovery day

After our marathon in Pompeii we thought we ought to re establish our energies today so had a quieter start and a lazy breakfast. Our ant problem continues and Steve is thinking that they may actually take over the caravan if we are not careful so action is required.

We decided to walk into Vico Equense from where we are camped on the marina - all uphill may I say. It was a beautiful walk - all 221 steps of it! We finally ascended into the village and found our lethal weapon - strong ant killer, in a hardware shop. Then we had a walk around to explore the town. It is not a tourist town at all - simply a working Italian one - and all the better for it. We found a wonderful fishmongers and bought two days worth of dinners there. We also found a good deli with cheeses to die for so after tastings we bought some for our lunches. Stamps were purchased for the postcards back to the family and then we stopped for coffee. It was a very modern, high spec place with chrome, black and glass everywhere, complete with plasma screens of the music channels. We are fascinated by these as we listen to the radio a lot but never get to see the videos so we enjoyed watching them (sad eh?). We are both big fans of an Italian rock singer called Ligabue whose latest single is called Il Centro del Mondo and turn the volume up whenever we hear it being played. Anyway - after the coffee, the sit down, watching the videos and using their facilities the total sum of the bill was - 2 euros!! definitely not a tourist town.

Another speciality in this area is the large, sweet lemon. It is used in everything from cakes to lemoncello (liquer) and is HUGE - see pic. We haven't bought any yet because we would never use them all. They are nor sprayed so deteriorate very quickly and the heat in the caravan is too high to keep them.

Back to the caravan,all 221 steps, and a quick spray around to exterminate the invaders. Then lunch, a siesta and some internet time to catch up on the blog and research our ferry crossing from Italy to Greece. We have now booked it online so there is no going back - we will leave Italy on 22nd July and sail to Greece. That is another episode of our trip over and a move closer to Cyprus.

The Isle of Capri tomorrow by boat and an early start so better get some sleep.

Ashes to ashes, dust to dust

Thats the feeling we got when we arrived at Pompeii.

The public transport in Italy is superb - efficient, punctual and very cheap. Today we caught the bus from a few metres outside the camp site and that took us up the winding, narrow roads to the top of the cliff where the train station is. It wasn't so much a bus trip as a funfair ride! Obviously they feel confident on these roads but we don't! The cliff edges come within inches of the bus on some of the turns and the other traffic just does their own thing, weaving in and out of the remaining spaces. These buses run every half hour so they must manage it ok. The train was waiting in the station for us - all covered with graffiti and we took the 20 minute train ride to Pompeii and disembarked right outside the ruins. The return trip, for both bus and train was 2.80 euros each - amazing value.

After paying our entry fee of 11 euros each to enter the city we set off for our mammoth expedition - it is immense, much larger than we anticipated. Even with all the crowds - and there were a lot - the city still had an eerie silence about it and we were amazed and impressed by how advanced their lifestyles were. There were the fast food outlets (the houses didn't have kitchens so people used to go out for lunch every day), the hotels, shops, temples, the forum and three theatres. Out of 22,000 inhabitants there were 8,000 slaves so most households would have one. Frescoes are still evident on some of the walls - see pics, and their communal baths were very advanced, having cold, tepid and hot areas of bathing. We could see some of the beauty of the houses and decorations behind the ruins. In fact all they didn't have was our recent telecommunication systems - or traffic wardens. Surprisingly though, for such an advanced society, they didn't think of disposing of their sewage underground and it simply ran down the roads. They coped with this by placing larger stepping stones at road junctions to avoid walking in the crap. Yet they did have plumbed water through lead pipes without being aware of the consequences and suffered healthwise as a result.

The commercial laundry used urine as a stain remover too - all that ammonia. They used a lot of it so camels came in handy in that respect. I will try that on the grease marks on Steve's shorts! - not camels of course.

We left the ruins at midday and found a cafe for lunch. We had a brilliant set meal by another very proud chef who made his own pizza, pasta and cake for dessert. The salad was gorgeous too. He told us all about his work in Covent Garden which his son now runs.

Back to the ruins in the afternoon and it was really baking hot by now. We were determined to see all the sights though so we plodded on - and managed it. Our hats were essential as there was little shade. It really does need the best part of a whole day to do it justice.

Then the train and bus back without any harm to us thankfully. Half way back though we were gobsmacked to see the train driver, and two of his cronies who were in the cab with him, just stop at one of the small stations, get out and have a smoke and a natter. All the passengers were left in the baking carriage with the sun streaming in the window and no air con - we just had to wait for them to finish! No one seemed to bother so we didn't either.

Another cold shower was needed on our return and a quiet evening to recover. Tomorrow will be a chill day before we decided where to go next.

Way on down...

Further south today towards Naples, Sorrento, Isle of Capri and Pompeii - what a lot of beauty and history for us to explore.

We set off for the longest car journey yet on our travels as we are missing out a planned campsite in order to give us extra time at this one. Then we can see more of the area without rushing too much in this heat. The temperatures are regularly 33 - 36c and that controls a lot of our activity.

As it is a Sunday the roads are free of a lot of lorries which is a godsend - but there are a lot of Italians heading for the coast to sit on the beach too. The period around lunchtime was quiet but when we reached Napoli the world and his brother seemed to hit the roads - manically! They are truly crazy drivers and take such stupid risks. They also dread being behind a caravan so speed up even more to get past us on the road. They don't seem to mind which side they overtake on either. How we have avoided crashes so far we don't know. Imagine the M25 with drivers like the Italians - but no lane markings either! It is a free for all without brains! Added to that the roads off the motorway have become narrower, more steep and more winding so there is a lot of pipping of the hooter on the bends - peaceful bliss - not!

Having said all that - when we arrived at the campsite we were stunned by the beauty of the area after driving through slum suburbs of Naples on the way here. The campsite is in a town called Vico Equense on a steep coast road and is set in orange groves - with walnut trees, grape vines and olive trees as well. Very well shaded and quiet except for the road outside and all the car hooters sounding on the bends. It is literally 200 metres from the beach and small harbour where there are quaint restaurants and houses and hotels clinging to the cliff face - see pics. As it is Sunday loads of Italians are around to bake on the beach and they make a lot of noise and leave a lot of litter. The place is ruined by rubbish and it seems such a pity. Graffiti is everywhere as well - you need to be positive and look beyond it.

After setting up camp we had a lovely cold shower and strolled down to the waterfront and sussed out the restaurants for our Sunday meal. We ended up choosing one that had a seating area on a jetty out into the sea. By the time we were sitting down the crowds had dispersed, a few fishing boats were bobbing on the water and the sun was setting. Added to that the service in the restaurant was impeccable - curteous, friendly and an Italian Bob Hoskins to entertain us with his tales of England. The food was good too - starters of mozarella - mine with tomato and basil, Steves with prosciutto. Then I had a seafood pasta and Steve had crab ravioli with a cream sauce and parmesan - home made pasta too. We drank the local white wine which was gorgeous and chilled to perfection. We think we're going to like it here!

Tomorrow is a trip to Pompeii so an early night is called for.

A day of rest

After our two days tramping the streets of Rome - as well as the sights and corridors of the Vatican museum and Sistine Chapel we thought we ought to collapse today and recharge the batteries a bit.

After an early start - I know it sounds stupid after all those years at work of waking to an alarm, but we are setting the alarm again! That way we can enjoy breakfast in the cool of the day, do any jobs around the caravan that need doing, then blob a bit as the heat hits before lunching and then enjoying a siesta in the heat of the day. If we stay in bed until later we hit the heat quickly and don't need a siesta so we sit perspiring in the heat instead as its too hot to do anything else. If we are moving to a hot mediterranean country we need to live like they do.

This morning we did just that and by the time late morning came we were lounging round the pool with our books. After we had spit roasted (45 minutes on each side and nicely browned) we returned, had lunch and the required siesta which was lovely. Then we did what has become a bit of a ritualistic luxury for us every two weeks or so - a pedicure! It feels sensational and really helps the poor old feet that are subjected to heat, grime and dust +++. I have taught Steve and he is now an excellent beautician. He tells me that he really benefits from his feet being done too. We do live in an hedonistic world these days don't we? Mind you we got a few funny looks from the other campers as they walked by! we don't care though.

We read up a bit more on all we saw yesterday in the Vatican and Sistine Chapel - it was so interesting but there was so much to take in. Now Steve is cooking again - corned beef hash this time. After dinner we will try to plan a few more future dates and sites on the internet. For example we need to book the ferry from Bari to Greece so we need to identify a date that we will definitely sail.

No pictures for today then but instead I have decided to put some more of Rome on from the last two days. We took so many and it was so memorable that they deserve to be seen I think.